Update August 29 (In which all your questions are answered).

WHY HAVEN’T WE HEARD FROM YOU IN WEEKS?
Hi all. Sorry for the delay in getting this out, but I’ve computer problems; specifically, I blew out my power convertor for my laptop (turns out that charging AND running the thing was too much for my little Radio Shack convertor), which meant that I couldn’t write/send anything for a time.


WHERE IN THE WORLD ARE YOU?
I’m currently in a town called Padua, about 20 minutes from Venice. Most of the locals are on holiday, and I can see why: it is hotter than hell here, at least 30 degrees Celsius during the day (which I think is about 500 degrees Fahrenheit). At night it’s around 20C.

I know, I know, it’s the Mediterranean, what do I expect?! But the worst is the humidity—ugh! I want fog! I’m constantly on the verge of heatstroke, and temper it only by constantly drinking water and eating gelato.If you ever come to Italy you must have the fruit gelato, there’s nothing else like it--chunks of fresh fruit, or rich Italian chocolate. Mmmmmmm…I’m going to be at least 20 pounds heavier by next summer, I think.


WHAT ARE YOU DOING/HOW DID YOU MANAGE TO DO THAT?
I’m here to teach English, for those who didn’t know. I started training at the school where I will work at come September; so far, I can’t say the training has been good. In fact, it sucks!

Luckily, I did an intensive (4 week, M-F 8-5) course to get an English-teaching certificate (formally, the RSA/Cambridge Certificate of English Language Teaching to Adults aka CELTA) right before I left (hence my sudden disappearance from the Lindy scene). I took the course in San Francisco at a language school called International House; the same certificate is also offered in SF by Saint Giles language schhol, but they charge more and there’s always a waiting list. IH runs their program only once a year in SF, but it’s about $250 cheaper, the curriculum is the same, our class size was smaller, and the certificates are exactly the same.

(By the way, the CELTA is really one of the only TEFL certificates worth getting; it’s recognized worldwide and follows a set standard, so employers know that CELTA trainees will possess a particular set of skills and teaching experience. There may be one or two other equal certificates out there, but I wouldn’t bother with anything but the CELTA if you’re considering such things).

With that, I gained loads of practical teaching experience and theoretical approaches as well. Which is fortunate, since I'm not learning squat from this training.


ANY PROBLEMS SO FAR?
One thing that does bother me: the DOS (director of studies) of this school told me many months ago that the CELTA was a requirement for the job; yet only a few (maybe 1/3) of the others have the CELTA! Which means I will be getting paid the same as someone WITHOUT certification and experience. What a bastard.

I’m actually considering NOT taking the job after all; there are several major issues about this job, mainly the lack of support from the school (in terms of assistance with housing, additional "training," guaranteed hours, and straightforward answers to some of our questions), the quality of the school and its methods, and the lack of a solid, experienced staff. If I was only doing this as a whim, say for a year or so, it would be different. However, I really do want to make this a career move, not just a working holiday.

But then again, how can I leave a country with such delicious food?

On the positive (and negative) side, I have found a place to live--no more living in the hostel, suffocating from the stench of feet and ass! (At least if it smells *here*, it will be from myself or people I know).

I’m living with two Brits and two Americans, all of whom plan to teach English here in town. It’s a beautiful, near-luxury apartment, and the total cost for the place (4 bedrooms, in an 8-story complex) is about $1,300 USD including utilities! And this place is relatively expensive by Italian standards. So I’m basically paying about $350 to rent a room in an apartment that’s way better than anywhere else I’ve ever lived! And yes, we do have space for guests.

The drawback, however, is that if I do decide to leave soon, I need to find someone to take my place; not an impossible task, but definitely a pain in the ass. Also, the rent, although cheap for what we’re all used to paying, is still more than I wanted to pay, so I’m going to have to arrange some lessons on the side if I want to eat more than just bread and olive oil for the next 2 months.

Now, you might be asking where I would go if I were to leave Italy; I’ve got job possibilities in Estonia (near Finland, and Sweden/Herrang), and Germany (in Munich, home of Boogie Woogie). Estonia is the most promising in terms of school reputation and teacher support, but pays the least (about 375 USD a month, but this school at least includes an apartment), whereas Italy pays about 1000 USD after taxes but doesn’t (with this school, at least) include an apartment. Germany is a convenient plan B (or C), as well.


HOW HOT IS IT IN PADUA DURING AUGUST?
I haven’t stopped sweating since I stepped off the plane. I drink at least 6 pints of water a day, plus juice, gelato, soda, etc. The temperature is, on average, 30-32 C during the day, and 25C at night. Even at night I wake up sweaty. It’s supposed to cool down this week; if it doesn’t, I’ll probably pass out at some point.


HOW IS THE FOOD?
Amazing. Simply amazing. Fresh fruits and veggies from the daily farmer’s market, delicious cheeses, wines, desserts (ahhhh, desserts!), pesto, cheap olive oil, great bread, minimal fast food joints, thankfully no Starbucks (though I’m sure it’s just a matter of time), loads of espresso bars, lots of bakeries, delis, cheese shops, smallish supermarkets, and even the occasional Chinese restaurant if you’re so inclined.

There’s a chain of restaurants in Italy called Brek (like Break, as in lunch break), which is the Italian version of McDonalds, in terms of cheap, quick food. Tastewise, it’s worlds apart from Big Macs and fries, and just as cheap; everything is freshly made, and it’s cafeteria, self-service style. For under 10 USD, I got an appetizer (prosciutto), main course (pasta), a drink, dessert (fresh fruit torte), and bread/olive oil. I was stuffed, and for cheap! My kind of place.


IS THERE ANY DANCING?
There are several dance studios in town, but most have been closed for the holiday. One advertises classes in Argentine tango, and a friend tells me that salsa, merengue, etc are quite popular. I’m checking them out tomorrow night. I’d like to work on starting a Lindy scene here, but I think the average Italian’s clothes are just too damn tight for Lindy Hop.


WHAT ARE THE ITALIANS LIKE?
Talkative. Argumentative. Friendly. Well-dressed. Line-jumpers. Beautiful. Seemingly obsessed with scooters, smoking, and sunbathing. Tightly-knit (families). A lot like Americans. Not at all like Americans. Fashionable beyond belief.

I’ve received several requests to mail home some Italian boys and girls; I attempted to do so, and while they enjoyed the tight, curve-hugging fit of the wrapping paper, they felt that the plain brown color was not stylish enough for their tastes and refused to comply.

Speaking of Italian fashion, there are some really cool fashions here (especially the shoes, ah, the shoes) and some serious mistakes (Darrin F. would have a great time here, making fun of some of the whacked-out fashions some people wear). A small group of Italians are still stuck in the '80s, while one woman was wearing way, way, way too tight gold jeans. They also still listen to Bon Jovi and Guns and Roses (no offense to those of you who like glam rock, it’s just one of those anomalies of Italian culture). I’ll post/send pictures of some of the highlights later on.


That’s it for now. I’ll write more later on (the school also doesn’t have email access for teachers, which means an additional expense for us soon-to-be-starving teachers) when I have something worthwhile to say.

Feel free to write back with questions, SF/lindy world updates, hate mail, love sonnets, whatever. I don’t have a reliable postal address yet, but I’ll let you know ASAP and you can send me some SF fog to cool this place down.

I hope you’re all well!

Mike